Winter in Gulmarg

Here truly lies heaven on earth! A retreat nestled in the Himalayan mountains, Gulmarg opens to pristine white vistas and valleys

The indoor heated pool at Khyber Himalayan offers stunning views

Text: Laleh Busheri

Agar firdaus bar roo-e zameen ast, Hameen ast-o hameen ast-o hameen ast.

If there is paradise on earth, It is this, it is this, it is this.

The famous Persian couplet, originally penned by the 13th-century Sufi poet and scholar Amir Khusrau, has echoed through Kashmir’s valleys for more than 700 years. Though often attributed to Emperor Jehangir after his visit to Kashmir in the 17th century, the words belong to Khusrau, whose description remains astonishingly accurate even today. It is easy to dismiss such praise as poetic excess until Kashmir begins to unfold before your eyes.

The journey to Gulmarg starts in Srinagar, where the city slowly gives way to countryside and the road begins its gentle ascent into the Pir Panjal mountains. Majestic pine forests line the winding route westward, their dark green silhouettes standing against skies that seem impossibly vast. Small roadside stores appear every few kms., tempting travellers with sacks of ruby-red rajma, baskets of freshly harvested walnuts, and embroidered pherans whose intricate craftsmanship tells stories of generations past. I find myself making a mental note to stop on my return trip to the airport to take some home.

With every bend in the road, the mountains draw closer. The air grows cooler. The traffic thins. The landscape acquires a stillness that feels almost sacred.Then suddenly the valley opens. Gulmarg appears not as a town but as a dream, in pristine white.

Known today as the Meadow of Flowers, this high-altitude Himalayan retreat sits cradled amidst sweeping alpine meadows and dense pine forests nearly 8000 ft. above sea level. In summer, wildflowers spill across the landscape in brilliant colours. In winter, deep snow transforms the valley into one of the world’s most celebrated ski destinations. Either way, Gulmarg possesses a beauty so complete that it feels almost unreal. Nestled within this landscape is the Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa, a property that seems less built than discovered. Constructed from wood and stone and spread across seven acres of pristine pine forest, it rises from the mountainside with quiet confidence. There are no grand gestures here, no attempts to compete with nature. Instead, the resort embraces its surroundings, drawing the mountains indoors through soaring glass windows, warm walnut interiors, and spaces designed to celebrate the landscape beyond.

The first thing that greets guests is not luxury but fragrance. The unmistakable aroma of saffron-infused kahwa drifts through the vast walnut-clad lobby. Intricately carved wooden panels, handwoven carpets and delicate Kashmiri craftsmanship create an atmosphere that feels both regal and deeply comforting. Outside, the mountains dominate every view. Inside, the warmth of Kashmiri hospitality softens the grandeur.

Kahwa to warm you up

Morning arrives gently in Gulmarg.

From the balcony, clouds drift lazily through the pine forests below while the sun tries to peek through, touching distant snow-capped peaks. Wrapped in a blanket against the mountain chill, I sip steaming kahwa infused with saffron and almonds as the valley slowly awakens. Somewhere in the distance, birds call across the forest. The silence feels luxurious.

Breakfast at Cloves comes with a panorama that threatens to distract from the food entirely. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame rolling snow-covered meadows, dense forests and mountains rising dramatically. Yet it is impossible to ignore the culinary treasures that Kashmir places before us.

To understand Kashmir, one must understand wazwan. More than a meal, it is an expression of identity, hospitality and cultural pride. Recipes are inherited like family heirlooms. Techniques are perfected over decades. Every dish carries history. And I have had this elaborate meal at almost every visit, in different locations.

The traditional wazwan of Kashmir is served!	The wazwan served on a trami

One snowy evening, as twilight settled across the Pir Panjal range and the mountains outside disappeared beneath a veil of mist, a steaming bowl of Mutton Mirchi Korma arrived at the table. Its colour glowed a deep crimson, achieved through Kashmiri chillies that lend richness and colour rather than aggressive heat. Tender morsels of mutton had been slow-cooked with yogurt, fennel, dried ginger, cloves, cinnamon and cardamom until the meat practically surrendered to the spoon. The gravy possessed an extraordinary depth, warming without overwhelming, comforting without heaviness. Outside, snowflakes drifted silently through the darkness. Inside, every spoonful seemed to capture the essence of a Kashmiri winter.

A few evenings later came another masterpiece. The waiter placed before us, my husband (Dr CB Koppiker) and I, a bowl of Lamb Rista, perhaps the most celebrated dish in the entire wazwan repertoire. Perfect crimson spheres floated in a saffron-kissed gravy fragrant with fennel and aromatic spices. Traditionally, the lamb is painstakingly pounded by hand until it achieves a texture incomparable. The resulting meatballs are impossibly delicate, almost silken, absorbing the flavours of the rich broth that surrounds them. There was elegance in every bite, a quiet reminder that Kashmir’s culinary traditions are every bit as remarkable as its landscapes.

After dinner, the mountains reclaim the evening. Guests gather in Chaikash over hot chocolate and tea while snow settles softly across the forest outside. Later, Calabash glows warmly against the mountain darkness, its soft lighting and quiet conversations creating an atmosphere of relaxed indulgence. For those fortunate enough to dine at Nouf, the experience becomes almost cinematic. Heated against the mountain chill yet open to the night sky, the restaurant overlooks snow-covered peaks illuminated by moonlight. Fresh trout, caught in Kashmir’s icy waters and grilled over open flames, arrives at the table while the mountains stand silently beyond. Few dining rooms in the world possess a backdrop quite so extraordinary. Yet perhaps the most magical experience awaits indoors.

The heated pool at Khyber is framed by vast glass walls that seem to dissolve the boundary between architecture and landscape. Floating in warm azure water while snow softly falls outside, feels almost surreal. The forest beyond glows white beneath fresh snowfall. Mountain peaks emerge and disappear behind passing clouds. Nature performs an endless spectacle while guests watch from the comfort of perfectly heated water.

Dr Koppiker taking a dip into the pool

Adventure seekers arrive in Gulmarg for a different reason. The famous Gondola, among the highest ski lifts in the world, climbs steadily into the mountains, carrying skiers and snowboarders toward pristine slopes that rival those of Europe and North America. Gulmarg also boasts one of the highest golf courses in the world, which transforms into a sprawling bunny slope during the winter months. Yet even those with little interest in skiing soon find themselves enchanted. ATV rides across the snowy meadows offer an equally exhilarating way to experience the landscape, while snowmobiles carve tracks across open fields and families build snowmen beneath towering pines. Photographers chase the changing light across mountain ridges. Everywhere, nature remains the star attraction.

The Gondola climbs steadily, high into the mountains

Too soon, it is time to leave.

The road winds downward toward Srinagar once more. Perhaps there is time for one final stop at Drung Waterfall, where icy waters tumble dramatically through rocky cliffs framed by the mountains beyond. And then the valley slowly recedes into memory.

Yet long after the journey ends, Gulmarg remains.

It lingers in the scent of saffron and pine. In memories of snowflakes drifting beyond floor-to-ceiling windows. In the taste of a perfectly prepared rista. In the warmth of kahwa on a cold mountain morning.

Most of all, it lingers in the certainty that Amir Khusrau was right. Agar firdaus bar roo-e zameen ast, Hameen ast-o hameen ast-o hameen ast.

Gulmarg is an ideal winter destination- a ski lover's dream	Nestled in the mountains- a scenic view	Silence in the snow and the pine trees of the Pir Panjal mountains