Brussels & Bruges

Belgium’s Twin Treasures

Where chocolate, canals and culture collide. One hums with modern rhythm, the other whispers medieval charm – together they sing Belgium’s story. The two gems which promise delight at every turn

Text & Photographs: Farzana Contractor

For some reason or the other, Belgium would keep slipping out of my itinerary whenever I was in Europe. This time I was determined to get there and lo, I did! And am I happy!

I was in France visiting a relative and I decided it’s now or never. I was in a great mood to run as many rail miles and luckily the friend I was travelling with was also gung-ho! So, from the south of France we got to Paris, switched trains and were soon on our way to Brussels. Trains in Europe are still the best way to travel.

Belgium shares its borders with France, Germany, Luxembourg, Netherlands. During the three-and-a-half-hour journey my friend Selma and I found ourselves musing over the possibility of visiting two of these neighbouring countries. It feels so free to travel like that!

Well, Brussels first. A cosmopolitan hub with rather easy-going people. It was off-season, so the mad rush of tourists was missing. Northern Europe is much nicer at the end of September. The pace of living feels rather peaceful; the locals were out on the streets; walking, cycling, roller-skating, e-biking. Many were at a gathering in support of Palestine, rolling drums, chanting. All very democratic, with the police letting them be.

The official language in Belgium is German, but French and Dutch are also spoken. However, English is now more international than ever, so you get by, very easily. Though you don’t need any language in a chocolate shop. Just pointing at what you want is enough!

Honestly, Brussels is a chocolate paradise. There is nothing that is not available. As a photographer I was going nuts, I was devouring those amazing pralines and bonbons more with my lenses and my eyes than taste buds. But when I did get down to the tasting, I was totally blown.

Devouring chocolates through the camera lens	Belgium is a chocolate paradise!	Chocolates... everywhere you look!

Once the chocolate shooting, tasting and shopping exercise was done we headed to the main square, the Grand-Place, the Grote Markt or simply put, the Grand Square in English. Gosh, its magnificent.

The 223 x 361 sq. ft., cobble-stoned square is surrounded by the most beautiful buildings; ornate Baroque guildhalls, the Gothic Town Hall and neo-Gothic the King’s House. The many cafés and restaurants on the entire periphery of the square with flowering pots demarcating one from the other does add to the charm, energy and liveliness of the place.

The Grand Square	Cafes and people watching	Children's day out!

We decided we will have onion soup at every meal, just to see how one compares to another. And believe me, no two soups were alike. In any case, the one I make at home, wins hands down. I was taught how to make it by Monique, my French belle-seour four decades ago.

After spending some more time here, busker and people-watching, we meandered towards Manneken Pis, about five minutes away. Here is the famous 17th century bronze statue of a little boy urinating; a symbol of Brussels humour and loaded in the multiple souvenir shops in the form of fridge magnets, key chains, on T-shirts and baseball caps!

The narrow lanes of Brussels

We skipped visiting the Galeries Royals Saint–Hubert, the heritage shopping arcade with a glass roof and a luxury boutique which was right in the vicinity, and walked uphill to Mont des Arts – Hill of the Arts. Surrounded by museums and art galleries, here is where you will find the most scenic spot of the city. Beautiful terraced gardens, which seem to cascade, ample fountains, glass-fronted cultural buildings and the most panoramic views of the Brussels skyline.

We did plan to go on the Comic Strip Trail but fell short of time. This entails seeing over 80 murals featuring Tintin, Blake and Mortimer.

Chocolate shopping continues...	Mouth-watering jujubes	Nougat, anyone?

The dining scene in Brussels is quite vibrant, balancing between Michelin-starred restaurants, traditional Belgian brasseries and the casual eateries. Fortunately, the peak time for dinner is between 8 and 9 pm. Not earlier, as in many other European cities. Between my friend and I, we managed to order most of the Belgian specialities; shrimp croquettes, vol-au-vent, my absolute favourite moules-frites – mussels steamed in white wine cream served with crispy fries and the Flemish carbonnade which is a hearty beef stew slow-cooked in Belgian beer. You have to eat fries in Brussels (or anywhere in Belgium) to know what fries should be like. Double-fried, crispy, served with a light mayo, not ketchup. Of course, the best way to pair your meals is with Belgian beer and there are as many as 2,500 varieties to choose from!

Over 2500 varieties of beer	A queue to buy buns	Inside a beautiful church

Brussels is one of the world’s beer capitals with a huge pub culture ranging from historic estaminets to modern craft bars. The estaminets are rustic taverns and cosy inns where locals gather to drink beer, smoke, play games and socialise, and eat traditional food.

Chocolates galore!	Ceramic tulips	More chocolate!	Currant buns

You will find everything from lambics (wild-fermented, sour and complex) and gueuze (sparkling and tart, blend of young and aged lambics) to quirky fruit beers like kriek and framboise; that is cherry and raspberry. If you are a beer buff then you must visit the very lively Delirium Café, which has a Guinness World Record for its beer menu; 2000 + beers. Belgian beer does play a huge role in the daily lives of its citizens and more so during festivities. The Belgian Beer Weekend in September, showcasing nationwide breweries, held at the Grand-Place must be one hell of a beer affair.

Souvenir shopping	Exquisite gifts	Chocolate boutiques

The Grand-Place is indeed grand. Among one of its delights is also the Flower Carpet, held once every two years when the square is covered with 500,000 begonias. Just can’t imagine how beautiful that would look.

Our selection of a B&B turned out to be a jolly good one. Rather unusually named The Fish Market. So called because long ago there was a seafood market from near here. Even now there is a fair share of seafood restaurants in the vicinity.

A boutique B&B, The Fish Market is located in the historic district of Sainte-Catherine, just one km. away from the Grand-Place. Could not get any more central. And since it is just off the plazas that link the roads, it is quite quiet.

The rooms are well-appointed, all tastefully done by Franck, your host, who is a collector of all things ancient, and beautiful. Which include the gorgeous paintings which adorn the walls. It is Franck who you find in the breakfast room when you get there, whistling away laying the table, slicing the avocados and the cheese, bringing out the cold cuts, the fresh sourdough, brewing coffee, making interesting conversation.

But guess what’s the best thing about Franck? He has an adorable Chihuahua, tiny, nimble, agile. She took to me as much as I to her.

Fish Market B&B Foyer	Franck, the host at the B&B	Breakfast at the Fish Market

Bruges

Bruges is straight out of a fairytale book. Everyone without exception will say that. It’s cosy, it’s charming, it’s romantic. It’s simply enchanting.

The only local restaurant in Bruges

The moment you get off the train, arriving from Brussels just an hour away, you feel you are an outlander, you have travelled back in time. Cobblestone streets, canals meandering, swans floating gracefully, and architecture so medieval, so emotionally evocative, you just sink into silence.

The market square of Bruges	Dining out in the chilly autumn	Food and flowers go together

There is history here, and culture, and the canal is the lifeblood. It gives Bruges its personality. Almost everything you turn to, turns out to be hundreds of years old. The Belfry of Bruges, a 13th-century tower, which you must climb if stone steps worn by centuries don’t deter you, offers scintillating views. The Markt Square, where the Belfry is situated, is itself the heart of Bruges surrounded by guild houses, first started out in the 10th century.

The windmill that one stumbled upon	The famous laceworks of Bruges

Visiting the Basilica of the Holy Blood is to witness one of Christianity’s most treasured relics. Christ’s blood. Tradition says Count Thiery of Alsace brought the relic of the Holy Blood, a cloth, from the Holy Land in 1150 after the Second Crusade. Right since the 13th century, till today, every year, on Ascension Day, a procession takes place where the relic is carried through Bruges, in a grand medieval-style. That is truly preserving spiritual tradition.

The Church of Our Lady, one of the tallest brick towers in the world, actually houses Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child, a rare marble sculpture created around 1503 and 1505. The only one to leave Italy during the artist’s lifetime! What more can one say? Seriously, a blast from the Middle Ages.

With so much history and unparalleled treasures, what’s really cool about Bruges is its simplicity. People just go about their lives gently. Most locals, young and old, are on their cycles. And anywhere you, the tourist, wants to go, you walk. Just everywhere. And you love the walks. The roads are narrow and compact. If you lived along Langerei Canal, where we did, if you turned right and walked along the canal, you reached the Markt Square after a few turns here and there. And if you turned left and walked upstream, you passed the only local restaurant in town, where tourists don’t venture and you end up discovering a windmill and a beautiful biking trail through a dense forest. You sit on a bench and soak in the atmosphere watching joggers go by, or someone walking their dog.

Sunlight on the canal	Pets surely enjoy a great walk here	Dog friendly cafes

The canal boat tour was such a revealing experience. You actually get to see all of Bruges and hear all of its stories from the very vocal boatman. Humour, along with history and other anecdotes. Drifting along feels like stepping into a living painting. As the boat glides past centuries-old ivy-clad facades and you peek inside you notice hidden courtyards and quiet gardens. The gentle ripples reflect the spires and gables and you are once again lost in time. The boatman-guide continues to tell his stories bringing history to life. A boat ride in Bruges is more than just sightseeing. It’s pure romance afloat on the serene water, even as you are asked to go low once again to pass under yet another low stone bridge. Loved it!

Low bridges and canals	A fairytale look	Cycling through the woods	Public drinking water

The Markt Square is where all the action takes place in Bruges. Surrounded by colourful guild houses and dominated by the towering Belfry, the square’s big draw has to be the magnificent horses and their beautiful golden inlaid carriages. Of course, it’s touristy but why not. It’s tourists who enjoy a ride around the square and the children especially love it. The cafés dotting the square are always full with people, people-watching, taking in the sun. And the walkers linger along, also watching the world go by.
The square has been a market place for centuries and the lively atmosphere still reflects that heritage. Being there, you feel the pulse of the town – timeless, bustling and beautifully preserved.

Touristy, may be, but fun!	Getting pet-friendly	Time to explore the city!

There is one more aspect that I found so appealing about Bruges. You will never go thirsty here. Scattered across squares and parks are water fountains, completely safe to drink from. Clean and cool, the water is drawn from local aquifers, naturally filtered and carefully treated to meet strict standards. And the wrought iron fountains themselves are a thing of beauty.

The soup was fab	Moules Frittes	French onion soup	Belgian double fried fries