Norway & The Arctic Circle

A Life Well-Cruised

A 14-day cruise to the Norwegian Fjords and the Arctic Circle opened up the doors to an outdoor paradise on the waters, for this writer and her husband. Roam, breathe, stay, let the peace fill your soul, all on a Norwegian cruise...

Text: Laleh Busheri

Some trips are planned years in advance. Others happen in a moment – sparked by a conversation, a hint of urgency, and a dash of wanderlust.

It was during our Christmas and New Year 2024 cruise to Vietnam, Thailand and Hong Kong that my husband Anand and I overheard fellow travellers say cruises to Norway might stop post 2025. Climate change and preservation efforts, they said, could keep the fjords closed until electric ships became the norm. Without missing a beat, we decided this was the time. The Norwegian Fjords and Arctic Circle 14-day cruise was booked before the evening ended.

For me, Norway wasn’t just another destination. As a child, the neighbouring apartment to my mother’s was the Norwegian Embassy. Over the years, we became close to the vice chancellors posted there, and as a teenager, I even visited Norway with her. The memories – great quality of life, lush green valleys, kind people, open spaces and a calm that stayed with me – made it one of my favourite places in the world. Returning was more than travel; it was like going back to an old friend.

Norway means ‘a way to the North’, and it is really an outdoor paradise. Depending on when you go, it offers kayaking, hiking, skiing and a chance to experience natural wonders that feel like scenes from a dream – the midnight sun in summer and, if you visit in winter, the Northern Lights dancing across the sky.

Our home for the journey was the Celebrity Apex, a ship with sleek, modern lines and clever design touches that make you forget you’re travelling with 2,900 other passengers. The ship offers a variety of accommodations and entertainment options, including the unique Magic Carpet – a cantilevered platform that moves up and down the ship’s side, serving as a dining, lounging, or embarkation space. The Infinite Veranda staterooms blur the line between indoor and outdoor space with a retractable window design, making the days at sea as enjoyable as the days ashore.

Perhaps it was the lack of noisy crowds (the ship isn’t particularly aimed at families with small children) or the sheer size of the vessel, but there was always a quiet corner to be found. We set sail on this 13-night cruise from Southampton, England, bound for the Norwegian fjords, up across the Arctic Circle to the North Cape, and back.

Being on a cruise ship in Norway feels like staying in a floating hotel – all the comforts of home, gourmet food crafted in many restaurants such as Mediterranean, Italian, Japanese, and more, with fresh local ingredients, and ever-changing scenery right outside your window. Days at sea could be as action-packed or as laid-back as you wished – from hot tubs, heated pools, reading by the deck with a cooler in hand, to endless activities and shows. And best of all, you unpack just once, yet watch Norway’s dramatic landscapes unfold for miles.

Bergen's beautiful homes

Sailing into the North: Days at Sea

While the ports were magical, the days at sea were equally memorable. Celebrity Apex filled these with a mix of relaxation and entertainment. Mornings often began with breakfast in bed with our personal valet, yoga, stretching, or guided meditation sessions, while trivia contests, art auctions, cooking classes, spa activities and jewellery showcases kept afternoons lively. Game shows like The Whisper Challenge and Pitfall had us laughing, while evenings featured headline performances with everyone in formal attire – ladies in gowns and men in suits, tuxedos, bows, ties – from Irish music with Tara Howley, Abba and the likes to the high-energy theatre spectacle Crystallise. We also joined pop-up photoshoots, future cruise presentations, and even a seminar on the Rolex story. Nights flowed with live music, themed parties and late-night comedy. Sea days became a rhythm of activity, discovery, and camaraderie – a reminder that the ship itself was as much a destination as the ports we visited.

Our Very First Port: Flåm

Nestled deep within the fjords, Flåm is small – just a few hundred residents – but surrounded by UNESCO-protected beauty. It sits on the innermost branch of Aurlandsfjord, part of Sognefjord, Norway’s longest fjord. Flåm has shops, cafés, restaurants and accommodations for visitors, and the surrounding areas offer abundant opportunities for sightseeing and outdoor activities. Despite having only a few hundred residents, Flåm has a large number of tourists throughout the year, making it a year-round destination. The surrounding fjords and mountain scenery add to its charm.

The Flåm Railway opened in 1940 & now operates mainly as a tourist service with multilingual commentary. We had booked the Flåm Railway months in advance – a must, especially if your cruise schedule limits your time ashore. The one-hour journey from Myrdal descends over 800 mtrs. through tunnels, past steep slopes and waterfalls, including a stop at Kjosfossen waterfall. The return trip is equally stunning, but for a different perspective, we also hired a car to drive alongside much of the railway route, though the final 20% of the road was not motorable.

There are many options for tourists to explore – from scenic walks along great hiking paths to hiring Norway’s famous e-mobility two-seater car. These compact electric scooters are eco-friendly, easy to ride, and designed to navigate both city streets and coastal roads.

A short drive took us to Undredal, a fishing village famous for its tiny stave church, Scandinavia’s smallest. Built in 1147, it measures just 12 X 4 mtrs. and seats about 40 people. The chapel had its 850th anniversary in 1997.


The Flam Railway	The Undredal Stave Church

Another nearby attraction we drove to was Nærøyfjord, a narrow fjord only about 250 mtrs. wide at its narrowest point, surrounded by steep mountains. It is part of UNESCO World Heritage Sites and features mountains, forests, glaciers, lakes and waterfalls. Boat tours also operate to the fjords and are available from May to September.

Tromsø – Gateway to the Arctic


Tromsø in deep snow is magical!	The Northern Lights over the Artic Cathedral	Colourful homes dot the landscape in Norway

The next day, we arrived in Tromsø around noon, departing at 7 pm, giving us ample time to explore. Known as the Arctic Capital, Tromsø has colourful wooden houses (the oldest from 1789) and a lively cultural scene.

It is a regular stop year-round for cruise itineraries, partly due to its coastal location and visitor facilities. The region offers excellent conditions for viewing the Northern Lights in winter. You are now at a perfect spot to see this natural wonder. Aurora Borealis, or the Northern Lights, is a physical phenomenon that occurs when the solar wind is more powerful than normal, with huge electrical discharges hurling electrically charged particles to the Earth. This creates a magical dance across the skies. The Northern Lights are best experienced from autumn to late winter.

Tromsø is the largest city in Northern Norway, about a 6-hour drive from Alta, with a population of around 88,000, situated on an island.

Most of Tromsø, including the main city centre, is located on the island of Tromsøya. It is a major cultural hub, previously known as the Paris of the North. One of the popular attractions here is going on a dog-sledging tour. Though in summer, the midnight sun takes over the sky.

The Fjellheisen cable car whisked us up Mount Storsteinen, 420 mtrs. above sea level, for sweeping views over the city and surrounding mountains and a café that serves Norwegian delicacies and bakery products with an unmatched view below.
In winter, excursions here often include dog-sledging and even overnight stays in the Ice Hotel, where everything from the bar to the beds is carved from ice – fur throws and reindeer hides included.


The Sami tribe in Tromsø	Reindeer sledding is a must!	The Ice Hotel in Tromsø

Honningsvåg and the North Cape

Located on the island of Magerøya, Honningsvåg is the northernmost city in mainland Europe. This rugged yet charming town is surrounded by expansive tundra, breathtaking fjords, waterfalls and dense forests.

This tiny fishing town was completely rebuilt after World War II. It is also one of the best places to experience the midnight sun – a phenomenon where the sun does not set in summer, providing continuous daylight.

Honningsvåg is best known for its proximity to North Cape (Nordkapp), a steep cliff at the northern tip of Norway, most visited during the summer months when the midnight sun is visible. The midnight sun phenomenon means that the sun does not drop below the horizon. At the North Cape, you can see the sun all day from mid-May to the end of July. For most people, the midnight sun means less sleep, bright summer nights and lively activity in the outdoors.

We hired a car from the port and drove up to explore this spectacular destination, although regular tourist buses leave from the port. Near the car hire stands a statue of Bamse, a St Bernard who served as the mascot of the Royal Norwegian Navy during World War II, lifting spirits and even reportedly saving lives.

Bamse, the Naval mascot who served in WWII

The spectacular drive to Nordkapp is approximately 30 minutes by car, though the duration varies depending on the season and weather conditions. In winter, the road is challenging with potential snow drifts and strong winds.

We drove during the Norwegian summer and experienced strong winds and icy-cold temperatures. We had to layer up while the midnight sun offered unique landscapes. The journey to Nordkapp is truly unforgettable.

More interesting than the destination, the journey is rugged, snow-capped, Arctic and dramatic with reindeer along the way. En route, you can visit a Sami family to see how they live.

Above, in the centre, there is a short movie to learn about the Arctic wildlife. North Cape, the northernmost point of Europe, has been an adventure for travellers for hundreds of years, drawing royalty, sailors and explorers. The steep cliff towers 307 mtrs. above the Arctic Ocean, marking the end of the point of European mainland.

In 1964, Francesco Negri arrived from Italy – he was the first explorer to name North Cape as his final destination. In his travel journal, he wrote down: “Here I am at North Cape at the edge of Finnmark! I dare to say the very edge of the world. Since there is no other place further north inhabited by man, this affirmation has now been fulfilled to my satisfaction, and I will return to Denmark and if God permits, to the land of my birth.”

At North Cape, you can feel the thrill of standing at the northernmost point of Europe, learn about the Arctic wildlife through a movie, capture stunning photos at scenic viewpoints, and experience the beauty of the dramatic fjords.

Geiranger – Sky High Views and Fjord Farms

As the ship sailed into the Geirangerfjord, we passed the famous Seven Sisters waterfall – one of Norway’s most photographed sights. The village itself is tiny, just 250 residents, but it’s a base for some spectacular viewpoints.

Once again, we hired a self-driven car and drove up the Nibbevegen toll road – 11 sharp bends and a 10% incline – to the Geiranger Skywalk Dalsnibba, 1,500 mtrs. above sea level.

Winding your way through the Geiringer fjords feels like the entrance to a secret world protected by massive snow-capped mountains on either side. From the glass platform, Geirangerfjord stretched out below, framed by snowy peaks.

Further along, we visited Skageflå Farm, perched 250 mtrs. above the fjord. Once home to dairy animals, it was abandoned in 1916 but remains preserved. It is reached by boat from Geiranger, followed by a 30–45-minute steep hike.

Geirangerfjord, along with Nærøyfjord, is one of the most famous fjords in the world, often topping UNESCO’s list for sheer beauty. In different seasons, they show entirely new personalities – icy waterfalls in winter, powerful snow-fed cascades in spring, bright summer greens and fiery autumn colours. No two visits are ever alike.

Skagefla, a historic mountain farm

Ålesund

A port town on the west coast of Norway, Ålesund lies at the entrance of the Geirangerfjord. It is said that between 22nd and 23rd January 1904, there was a terrible storm, and someone was careless with a matchstick or an oil lamp, and flames spread from the southwest. In just 16 hours, 850 houses out of a 1000 homes were burnt down in 16 hours, leaving Ålesund looking like a war zone. Within three years, the Norwegians rebuilt the town in the Art Nouveau style, making the port of Ålesund especially famous for its architecture.


Ålesund, the maritime city	Views from another world!

Ålesund boasts a long coastline, a rich maritime history, and abundant fishing resources that have helped Norway thrive economically.

Local cuisine here includes reindeer meat and Brunost (a brown cheese made from caramelised goat’s milk whey), often enjoyed with waffles, while it’s mostly famous for delicious seafood. Cod-liver oil has an important place in the history of Ålesund. A popular excursion from Ålesund is a drive to Mount Aksla, a must-do experience. Alternatively, you can hike up 418 steps, a route extremely popular with locals for their daily workouts. At the top, you are rewarded with iconic views of Ålesund and the sea.


Brown cheese	Norwegian waffle

Haugesund – a Relaxed Farewell

Located between mountains, islands and the North Sea, the beautiful, rugged landscape of Haugesund will take you back to the days when the city was home to Viking kings and chieftains. Haugesund was our final stop, between Stavanger and Bergen. Historically, it was the residence of the first King of Norway, Harald Fairhair, who had his home and court there. Today it’s a small, easy-to-explore city with a compact, walkable layout, home to a variety of cafés, museums, galleries and a boat-lined waterfront. You can see most of the city in a couple of hours; the design style is credited to a local architect named Einar Halleland.

We wandered Haraldsgata, one of Norway’s longest pedestrian streets, lined with clapboard buildings, housing shops and cafés. The city park is very popular, offering a green and tranquil environment, originally a private property turned public after bankruptcy in 1878. The city’s pink town hall will catch your eye with its bold colour and design. It is recognised as one of Norway’s most iconic buildings.

Haraldsgata on a sunny afternoon

Skudeneshavn is a charming seaside town, 40 minutes away. It features 130 well-preserved 19th-century white clapboard houses, including the unique half house built into a wall.

Åkrasanden Beach is recognised as the most beautiful beach in Norway, located about 30 minutes south of Haugesund. This blue flag beach has soft white sand and clear shallow water. Here, the locally produced kanutta sausage is a must-try.

Langfoss Waterfall is a stunning waterfall, around a 90-minute drive northeast of Aleusund. It cascades nearly 2000 ft. through lush pine forest into the fjord.

A ferry ride 18 miles southwest of the small island of the Utsira Islands covers only 2 sq. miles, which is easy to explore on foot, featuring incredible bird life and often sweeping views of the North Sea. If you are a bird enthusiast, you would see over 300 blue throats, cuckoos, swallows and yellow warblers.

Reflections

Our 14-day cruise in Norway felt both like a return and a discovery. I had seen parts of it before, yet the fjords, mountains and endless daylight felt entirely new. Norway is a country that doesn’t just welcome you – it lets you roam, breathe and take a little of its calm back with you.

What struck me most was how the same land wears so many faces. Winter freezes the fjords into a hushed stillness, spring sends waterfalls thundering down the cliffs, summer stretches the light into midnight hours, and autumn cloaks everything in gold. And in between, life unfolds gently – a waffle with brown cheese, a sip of Aquavit, the cry of a sea eagle overhead, or the sudden appearance of whales in the deep waters.

Norway isn’t just a destination on a map – it is a rhythm of nature and seasons, of silence and song, that lingers long after you’ve sailed away. As I stepped off the ship, I carried with me not just memories but a quiet promise to myself: I would return back one day, to lose myself again... this time on a road trip exploring my way through Norway’s fjords and valleys, at my own pace.