Monique Musings
A Farewell to New York’s Charm
The intrepid Monika Patel has penned her swan song to the city she dreamt of living in, and did, fabulously, for a decade. Now comes the time for a new adventure, but not before she gives you a few last bites of NYC
It was my dream to live in the city that never sleeps and for a decade I lived and breathed that life. But now it’s time to leave. Writer Sari Botton, confessed, “New York City gave me everything it had, and greedy as I was for experience, I took and took. I carry with me every day the gift of the lessons New York taught me.” I will borrow her words because I too will always cherish the memories from this unforgettable period of my life. But before leaving, I made the most of my last NYC summer.
As a proud desi, a highlight has been to dine at Chef Vikas Khanna’s latest offering to the city, Bungalow. Ever since it opened doors in March, I tried to get a reservation but it was not easy. Even contacts didn’t work. So how did I get in? Here’s the hack. Either pounce on the Resy site exactly at 11am, two weeks before you want to go, or do what I did and queue up at 5pm and luck out as a walk-in. Traipse down a few broad steps and you step into history. The entrance and bar area evoke the British Raj. Chef Khanna has recreated nostalgia using dark wooden furniture and panels, old-world artifacts and books from his personal library. And then you venture further for another surprise as the space opens into a bright, floral garden giving it a fresh, upbeat feel. The food titillates the senses too from wide eyes to twitching nostrils and watering tongue. The Lucky Cheng gin-based cocktail with curry leaf has a slight sweet tinge but Holi Moly with chilli mezcal, passion fruit and lime is tinglingly delicious. The Spice Toasted Pineapple comes recommended. Once it is placed in your dish, the waiter pours a scrumptious coconut gravy that made me want to lick the plate clean. I would have preferred shrimp instead of the pineapple, which was also a tad salty. The Banarasi Pani Puri with beetroot sounds better on paper, the flavour was too subtle. My favourite was the Anarkali Chicken with pomegranate chilli cilantro. The blend of tang and spice along with watermelon radish and the nuttiness of cashews makes this kebab-like dish delicious. The pieces could have been smaller, but we polished it off. As we did the Chicken Amrit, Bungalow’s version of butter chicken. The stuffed yogurt kebab wrapped in katafi/seviyan, is another popular favourite. Chef Khanna is always hovering around, inspecting something in the kitchen, pouring drinks for guests or welcoming customers. He makes it a point to greet everyone at the restaurant. He stopped by our table, too, and we managed a photo and a short chat with him before embarking on the final leg of the meal, the pièce de résistance, a delectable three-way mango dessert. It’s a rasmalai, topped with a light mango mousse, decorated with fresh mango coulis and chopped raspberries. Chef has perfected making food an experience and not just fuel for the body.
If Vikas Khanna ensures he gives his clients personal attention, another east side establishment also does this in a different way. Ambo is a small eatery close to NYU, serving everyday Indian food. Started during COVID by three engineers from Baroda, who are also childhood friends, the idea was to streamline Indian fast food while still presenting authentic taste that isn’t catering only to a Punjabi or South Indian palate. They have dishes like moong dal, khichdi, bhindi and other home favourites. You build your own meal just like you would at a Chipotle, Poke Bowl or Sweetgreen. Simply pick your grain, your protein, your veggie, your sauces, combine them in a bowl and voila, a healthy variant is yours for the taking. Using their technical brains they have created a seamless production line and even taught non-Indians how to make Indian food using precise measurements. The enterprising trio have catered events at NYU, the Indian embassy and the Indian consulate at the UN. All their masalas are freshly ground in-house and they bottle their own lassi. Even the masala chai is brewed fresh and served out of a steel thermos. They hope to branch out and turn Ambo into a franchise. All recipes are sourced in-house from family members and tried in their kitchen before being incorporated into the menu.
There is one New York offering I could never get enough of and that is theatre. Theater for a New Audience in my Brooklyn neighbourhood presented a part Bangla, part English play by Shayok Misha Chowdhury. Despite being very long and extremely Indian in its sensibility, it got an amazing response from a mainly non-Indian audience. The director very cleverly adapted the translations of the language on the set via digital projections so the audience was never at a loss to follow the proceedings. The nuances of how families behave, their old-fashioned attitudes, the goings-on in a typical Indian middle-class home were cleverly adapted for stage by the skilled actors and the innovative set design. A Bengali man from the US arrives at his aunt and uncle’s home in Calcutta with his black boyfriend to interview prostitutes and queer people for a project. The play is about the dynamics between the characters and the flamboyant supporting cast while also exploring being gay and Indian American. There is no conclusion, and the play is more like a glimpse into someone’s life, but it ends on a note of hope and a standing ovation, too.
Brooklyn is fast gaining the reputation of being a foodie’s paradise. Two new restaurants in Fort Greene are testament to this, Theodora and Sailor. Tomer Blechman is already a cult figure with his restaurant, Miss Ada. Not too far away, he has also opened a pricier version, Theodora. The menu is not extensive and divided into cooked and uncooked seafood, bread, vegetables and larger plates. The Mexican touch to the seafood adds much deliciousness. We ordered almost everything on the menu and thoroughly enjoyed the shared smaller plates, but the pasta did not impress. On the other hand, everything at Sailor is worth trying. And no wonder, given the chef is none other than the controversial British chef, April Bloomfield, known for having the Midas touch with food. In fact, despite being relatively new, Sailor is among the top 100 restaurants in NYC.
Talking of accolades, a Broadway show receiving much acclaim is Suffs, the Hillary Clinton-produced musical about the suffragette movement. Based on a book by Shaina Taub, the polished production not only won Emmys for best score and best book, but given this is election year, it is also very topical. The play focusses on historical events that eventually gave white women the right to vote. In fact, at the end of the play, it is poignant because the black women who supported the movement knew they still had to continue their fight. Activists like Carrie Catt, Alice Paul, Ida Wells have been superbly crafted along with women like Polish-American suffragist, Rose Lyons and socialite-turned-suffragist Inez Milholland, whose tragic story was very well portrayed. Even the men’s roles are played by women. The play has all the makings of success with the scheming, the angst, the coercions, the hidden relationships, the protests, the beatings in jail and the relentless drive to get the right to vote. The audience clapped along, wept, cheered as the women sang out their message.
A different genre of creators was feted at a fundraiser for the Indie film, Attracting. The screenplay by Jessica Jiji follows a struggling actor trying to make it in NYC. If the film manages to get funded, it will be a hilarious insight into the neurotic and normal people who inhabit this city. It was held at The Stonewall Inn, scene of a violent uprising against gay people and a beacon especially during Pride Month. From large productions to small creators, the city hums with the still-to-be-discovered and uber- talented folks. This is the charm of New York. It’s a web that draws you in.
I was attracted by the novelty when a friend asked me to join her for yoga in Times Square. This is the 22nd year for Mind over Madness yoga celebrating the solstice at Times Square and though it precedes International Day of Yoga (June 21), it now celebrates this event, too. Participants are given free yoga mats and water bottles, an entire area in Times Square is cordoned off, and throughout the day, yoga sessions are conducted by experienced and renowned yoga teachers. The event is not only free, but seamless to register and conducted smoothly despite the large turnout. Oblivious to hovering tourists, it was exhilarating doing a headstand in the middle of New York and to feel a sense of belonging. Also exhilarating was watching India win the T20 World Cup at Fitzgerald’s pub, surrounded by a sea of cheering desis. The mood was joyous as everyone downed their drinks, devoured fries and gave their throats a mighty workout.
Here’s a tip for people who do not enjoy cooking but love Indian meals. Nidhi Tuki, artist-turned-entrepreneur, moved from Calcutta to NYC 20 years ago and discovered a love for cooking. A few years ago, after a tired hostess complained of the time it took to prepare a meal, she got the idea of experimenting with readymade sauces. Thus, was born Masala Mama, where she offers a taste of home cooking without the work. Her products can be found at grocery stores like Whole Foods as well as on Amazon. Whether you need a base for korma, or tikka masala, a vindaloo or curry, or even just want to heat and eat some legumes, Nidhi has it all prepped and ready for you. You can buy a single-flavour pack, 3, 4 or 6 pack, and the next time you entertain, revel in the praise of your guest while sending a wink Nidhi’s way.
My farewell bash was catered by Bedouin Tent. The owner, Abu Dayyeh, is a wonderful man. Even when I made the blunder of not tipping enough, he was gracious in pointing it out to me and leaving the decision to me. From falafel, to hummus, babaganoush, chicken kebabs, grape leaves, Middle Eastern pizza and mouthwatering baklava, he ensured my order was precise, met my specs, delivered on time and most importantly, tasty. And he threw in a free sandwich when I went to his establishment to place the order, which I have to admit is one of the best lamb wraps I’ve had and I’m not even a fan of lamb. Bedouin Tent is also easy on the wallet and does not charge an arm and a leg like some other Brooklyn Middle Eastern caterers. And truth be told, I ate humble pie and Venmoed him an adequate tip.
Talking of farewells, and one of my favourite New York rooftop bars, is Manhatta. I simply had to revisit and drink in the view and yes, the cocktails. John the bartender made a delicious tangy and spicy gin-based cocktail for me and I enjoyed the bar bites of pretzel with mustardy cream cheese and a hazelnut Buratta served with charred asparagus and decorated with petals. But I was in for a shock. The manager was rude to me over a misunderstanding for requesting my favourite table. I was supposed to meet more friends but was so upset, I decided to leave and go to another bar. And that’s how I discovered Overstory, one of the top 50 bars in the world. I have eaten at Crown Shy on the ground floor, but Overstory was always difficult to reserve. They have since changed their reservation policy and made it easy for walk-ins, too. If there is one view of New York City that is a must, it’s the one from the 64th floor of 70 Pine Street. Unfortunately, James Kent is no longer alive, but the establishments he created will forever live on as his legacy to the city.
And as my time came to an end, I made a mad dash to get in as many of my favourite spots as possible. Some I managed like dining at Bar Room at The Modern and some bubbly at RH Rooftop, where I spotted Jeremy Strong of Succession fame who had just won an Emmy for Enemy of the People. But my favourite turmeric cocktail at Baar Baar will have to remain on my wish list along with the best seafood at Catch, the Beetroot Salad at ABC Kitchen and the kharghosh at Dhamaka. But I need to mention some new ‘last week in NYC discoveries’ too. Could the Thai food at Fish Cheeks be even better than Thailand? Possibly. Everything is delicious but you must try the whole branzino with Thai herbs. I still wake up remembering the taste of that sauce on my tongue. Do jump on the musical notes at Little Island and enjoy a beautiful view, maybe catch a concert at the amphitheatre. For a classy rooftop bar try Peak at Edge.
New York is never going away, and I know I’ll be back, so this swan song may still see another day.
But as one of my favourite authors, Paulo Coelho, once said, “If you’re brave enough to say goodbye, life will reward you with a new hello.”
Because life is an adventure and it’s on to the next one for me.