It Rains Fishes

In The Hague (Den Haag), known for damp and rainy weather, it does not rain cats and dogs... it rains fishes. This popular restaurant is an essence and statement of what Den Haag represents. It is the first fusion restaurant with five international chefs ruling the kitchen peacefully (Chinese master chefs Ho and Yong, C. Geboers, who previously worked at Quaglino's and other trendy restaurants in London, with Zalm and Kua specialising in Indonesian and Thai cooking). With excellent team-work, they create the most incredible fusion gourmet dishes.

The recipes, a fusion of Thai, Malaysian, Indonesian and French. The restaurant's name was inspired by a children's story from Thailand about the sound of fishes jumping and splashing on the riverbanks after a heavy rain. That theme is echoed on the ceiling and walls of the restaurant.

The future king of the Netherlands, Prince William Alexander of Orange (mobile, but not to be confused with cellular), lives nearby and often dines here. It Rains Fishes is owned by restaurateur Edwin van de Goor whose motto is, "There's no business like fishy business." Here instead of some nonchalant nuts to go with your aperitif, there is a bowl of tiny fried ‘spring’ fish (whitebait, reminds me of Bombay Duck) in sweet Thai sauce, accompanied by a little bowl of chicken broth. When taken together leaves a wonderful after-taste.

The house aperitif is champagne with a dash of ginger liqueur. The variety and planning of the menu is impressive (very user friendly). Both the food and wine menus have indicators (little fish designs) next to each dish, and the correlating wines. Extremely helpful in selecting the most compatible wine for each dish. Wine consultant Paul Op Den Berg was instrumental in pairing them, like marriages made in heaven.

The first bite of my S'amuse, tartare of salmon with salsa of mango, yogurt sauce, and tuille (thin crisp) of Parmesan cheese, confirmed my high expectations. This served with a young fresh fruity french white wine, Voignier Roi De La Lune (98). For starters not to be missed are the crispy black sticky rice with scallops and oil of chives or prawn crackers with crabmeat salad in coriander oil, both go well with a surprisingly smooth Greek white Amethystos (98). Obviously the phrase ‘too many cooks spoil the broth’ doesn't apply anymore.

The masters of wok definitely have their sway and say here. This is poetic cuisine... subtle in taste yet it wakes up every tastebud. Not another morsel I decided... but the charming, affable bon vivant maitre d, De Bruijn, convinced me otherwise. I'm happy I took his advice. Desserts are to die for and reach pig heaven, specially the Thai basil, and chocolate sorbet, an unforgettable first time experience - in short orgasmic. Delicious with black Muscat Elysium (97) (Madera, California). An excellent dessert wine to keep at home. It Rains Fishes: Noordeinde 123, 2514 GG Den Haag. NL. Tel: 070 365 2598 Fax: 070 365 2522.

Le Restaurant – Des Indes Intercontinental

GOOD hotels exist in plenty; even great hotels, where the food is perfect, the beds like swansdown and the plumbing never embarrasses. But there are only a handful of truly grand hotels left in this world. The genuine grand hotel is distinguished by its classical style, tradition and above all, atmosphere. The Des Indes Intercontinental, originally built as a baronial mansion, is one such place.

It is a stately palace hotel set on a tree-lined square, near embassies, houses of parliament, the charming shopping street of Denneveg, opposite the palace museum "Lange Voorhout" and within walking distance of the famous Mauritshuis Museum.

Le Restaurant, the main dining room of the Des Pardes, features formal dining with gastronomic French Mediterranean cuisine. It is run efficiently with Dutch precision by restaurant manager, Marcel Lagendyk. The S'amuse is always ready and waiting for you at the precise time of your reservation. The most wonderful thing about this restaurant is that two S'amuses are always offered, before the meal starts. Chef Van-Beusekom changes the menu royal every week, depending on season. The food is consistently delicious and imaginative, so one can't go wrong no matter what one orders.

My favourite on the regular everyday menu for entrees is grilled lobster with bouquet of herbs and a garlic biscuit (typically Dutch, called kletskoppenbeslag) with lobster syrup. Or the goose liver with apple and calvados sauce. In fish, the crispy becker with basmati rice, king prawns, summer truffle and leek coulis is excellent.

Other than the main restaurant, there are seven banquet rooms of which two are on the ground floor. The Mata Hari Salon (named after the notorious World War II spy), and the Anna Pavlova Salon (after the respected ballet dancer who died in the hotel). In fact, the Anna Pavlova Pie became a famous dessert after her death and like the melba toast and the peace melba named after the famous opera singer Nellie Melba, the legend lives on. The other banquet rooms, notably the original ballroom, frequently serve for state banquets or official events.

Des Indes Intercontinental the Hague, Lange Voorout
54-56, 2514 EG Den Haag NL.
Tel: 070 361345
Fax: 070 361 2350.

Savelberg - Voorburg, NL

WHEN travelling in Europe, this is one restaurant that must not be missed by anyone interested in a splendid fine dining experience. If there was only one restaurant to suggest, this would be it. This jewel in the culinary crown of Europe can be found in the (almost four centuries) old village of Voorburg, just outside The Hague, the residence of the Dutch queen.

The famous Savelberg restaurant-hotel is small, precious and private. A perfect place for a honeymoon, or to wind down and chill out, the Savelberg is known for its prestigious kitchen and its splendid wine list. The restaurant offers clients the privilege and pleasure of having dinner in the kitchen, with an unique opportunity to watch Master Chef Henk Savelberg at work.

The chef's table, permanently placed at the entrance corner of the kitchen, could easily hold a party of six. Impeccably set with flowers, this table allows a complete view of the entire cavernous kitchen and all six work stations, each solely dedicated to their specific preparation: 1. The S'amuse, 2. Vegetables and soups, 3. Rottisberrie/ meats, 4. Fish, 5. Salads, 6. Desserts. Usually this holds 12 chefs.

After my S'amuse of quail egg in a feullete, shrimp with ginger batter and tomato bisque with Dutch shrimp, and some laughs with the chef, I go upstairs to the dining room, which can have upto 100 settings. Mr. Savelberg seems to have the formula for success. All the tables are round. Most cosmopolitan diners lean favourably towards restaurants with round tables for entertaining. They are more inclusive as regards their guests, easier on the host or hostess for seat placements, and with no egos bruised, leads to wittier banter, good conversation and therefore a fun dining experience.

I try the specialities of the house listed in the box Les Patrons Cuisiniers 2000. Salade Van Kreeft "Savelberg". The lobster is cracked, shelled and the salad prepared in front of you. Lobster, haricorts, truffle, artichokes, goose liver all tossed in a truffle sauce. Delectable and delicate in taste. Grilled turbot with white asparagus in a vinaigrette of sun-dried tomatoes with lamsoren (A speciality of Holland, it is a seagrass, found in Oosterschelde.

It grows only where the sea and river water meet. Salty in taste and due to its shape, named lamb's ear in Dutch). This dish deserves an outstanding ovation. The dessert of raspberry souffle was light, airy, perfect, heavenly. An experience of truly fine dining, it left me feeling fulfilled, filled, yet light enough to walk on air.
Restaurant - Hotel Savelberg, Oosteinde 14 2271 EH
Voorburg - NL, Tel: 070 387 2081 Fax: 070 387 7715.

Calla's

CALLA'S (as in "The calla lilies are in bloom again," the famous Katherine Hepburn line from the classic film Stage Door) is in its bloom. A restaurant of the moment, and as in spring, there is an ambience of happiness to it. 'Openness' is the operative word that comes to mind instantly. The entrance is open to the street with large french double doors. A former stable completely regutted and converted to open modernity by its owner, Chef Marcl VanDer Kleijn. Chef-owned restaurants have never disappointed me, always offering both excellent food and service. There is pride in details. Here, one walks in at street level, straight into a white, clean, open, contemporary space. There is a glossy lacquered white oyster bar to the right and a little further an open kitchen of glistening brushed steel. This allows the chef to greet his customers and the diners to rest assured that the kitchen standards are of highest quality.

The aperitif de jour is a Kir Royale (champagne with cassis) with a splash of vodka. A potent combination served on a thin square black polished flagstone tile. The colour theme on the ground floor is antique white and polished steel behind a shiny black granite counter top. It reminds me of Phillip Starck, but it is decorator Kurt Finnegan from London who had a hand in this.

Aperitif finished, I head towards the symmetrical stairway with its lief motif of calla lilies greeting me at the top like the bride's family! This 30-seater restaurant would be the perfect setting for a small wedding party... with this stairway to bliss.

Sharon Van Tongeren (co-owner) leads me to a round table. My S'amuse, a tryptych of bite-size raw tuna completely covered with a crust of roasted sesame (a sophisticated sushi!), a caccilatore of dried Italian sausage with mustard, and a little cup of melon soup. All three served on a handpainted, thin black flagstone tile with a small mother of pearl fork. Unlike most restaurants that have salt and pepper shakers at every table, here even the salt and pepper is served on an open flagstone tile tray. Aesthetically both modern and Japanese at once. The breads served are lemon bread, pecan/raisin bread, and a German sour dough.

For starters I suggest the salmon tartare with poached egg on top crowned by heads of beluga caviar, surrounded by lobster sauce (like a castle on a moat). The poached egg, just right enough for the yolk to trickle into the salmon tartare when cut by the exquisite mother of pearl caviar spoon. For libation, a Sauvignon Blanc Casa Lapostolle (Chile 99). Or the white frothy asparagus soup (a must in spring) with a South African Blanc de Noir Boschendal. This light rose wine goes extremely well with asparagus.

A favourite entree here is the baked cod filet with sauteed foie gras, accompanied by mousseline of garlic/potato and a crostini, in a vergus (green grape) sauce. Goes well with Pouilly Fume. This was followed by a Chilien Chardonnay Casablanca served with the sea bass with marinated vegetables in a sauce of meat juice.

The menu leans towards French cuisine and has a wonderful variety of seafood, but equally impressive was the lamb filet with lamb shoulder tournedos topped with parsley puree, at the side, boiled carrots and baby spring onions and pureed artichokes in lamb juice. Superb with an Italian Valpolicella Classico Superiore (96) - Mazzi. For dessert an apricot tarte with a thin layer of franzipane, wild strawberries and clotted cream with a delectable Rietvallei Estate Muscadel (98) from South Africa.

Calla's Laan Van Roos En Doorn 51A, 2514 BC, Den Haag Nl.
Tel: 070 345 5866
Fax: 070 345 5719.